Edit: Fixed by replacing the main board. I probably could have just added a BLTouch which was considered, but the USB port was unusable and I need that. I’m keeping the old board to mess around with it for later though. Possible good learning experience to be had.
I picked this up as an Amazon return/open box. The person that returned it just swapped their old printer and returned it.
Anyways, I was able to get it running and starting it up I am able to move all axis like normal. But when I select Auto Home the z will lift about 5mm. This lift happens no matter where it’s located. The head and print bed will move to their zero points and touch the sensors then both move to roughly their center points.
From this point all the axis will only move in the positive directions (starting at ~145 and can move to 150 but won’t move back to the 145 position. X, Y, and Z will all do this).
From what I found, it sounds like the BLTouch firmware may be installed, as there is also a leveling option in the menus. I’m not sure if this would explain the axis movement issues though.
I have tried reseating all connections, tightened power supply connections, resetting to factory through the menu and gcode, and changing/updating firmware.
Updating the firmware seems to be failing as it boots up normally and the versions don’t change (formatted to FAT32 with 4k sectors). I’m guessing I may need to replace some hardware but if there’s anything else I can try first, I would love to get some input.
Printer info: Ender 3 pro, software 2.0.8.27, hardware 4.2.2, 2.0.8.2 April 28 '22
I like printing fast, so Klipper’s resonance compensation helps maintaining good print quality at higher speeds. I’ve done manual calibration of it and that worked really well for me, so I don’t think an accelerometer is mandatory. Pressure advance also improves print quality, but Marlin has linear advance which I think does something similar.
I also think it’s very convenient to keep the whole configuration in a text file and just reload it with the press of a button. Marlin has some settings in EEPROM which you can change through printer menus while others require a serial connection to the printer, but for “advanced” settings you have to recompile the entire firmware and flash it. Most things can be circumvented by adding overrides to the slicer start gcode, so it’s not really an issue, but over all working with Klipper feels more consistent and streamlined.
I also think having a full web based UI that I can control from any computer, like Mainsail, is really nice. But a disadvantage is that the display I have connected to the printer (the stock E3v2 display) does not work with Klipper so I have to use my phone to interact with the printer if I don’t have a laptop in the same room.
Well, shit.
Looking at some of that stuff real quick, at face value, I’m really liking these options and features. This will be a good start with the Ender as I’ve got my Vyper setup for things that I need quality in and don’t care about speed.
I think I’ll move the Ender to Klipper and get out set for speed and useful prints over cosmetic needs. It’s been annoying printing a bracket or clip with those settings and a .2mm nozzle that takes 8 hours when I know I can get it printed in at least half the time.
Thanks a ton for the suggestions and your input. These kind of changes and modding were exactly what I wanted to do with my Vyper a while ago but didn’t because it was my only printer and already tuned.
Fun times are ahead for Kronin!
Good luck!