Few people talk about anything worth engaging with like interests or conversations that might be productive. If that nonsense is normal, I want nothing to do with normal.

(Mod) Posts will remain pinned for ~1 week, lest OP requests otherwise.

Did anyone ask Elon

Absolutely not. No present computer can be built from scratch. The bootloader and microcode are proprietary. People slapping parts into a case are not building anything. No one can read the datasheets and build a machine like Woz, for some unethical asshat like Jobs to steal. The hardware is undocumented at this level and is now propriety because of a culture of moral decay. When x86 got established, it was only because it was open source with full documentation, and not only that, it was required to be second and third sourced to ensure no one could manipulate customers even with just the sourcing. That culture of never trusting companies and accountability is dead.

Trust, required for proprietary products, is feudalism. Ultimately that loss of ownership rights is a coup against democracy itself when normalized in culture. This is a dystopian world I recognize for its broad implications for a terrible dystopian future and wholly reject. I can only affect change in myself, and tell others. It is a complicated balance.

I will not hesitate to speak up with my personal opinion. However, my personal opinion is not a moderator here. I really should edit the community details to make my position clear. I have a policy of very conservative moderation. I have communicated to other mods and mentioned openly that my policy towards moderation is to never take actions when I am involved in a conversation. I will defer to other mods if ever necessary.

My personal opinions hold no sway over moderation here. Guerilla marketing is prohibited, but determining so in practice follows a set of undisclosed rules that will remain undisclosed to avoid gaming them.

I am only human. I can be easy to dislike by many, so I am told anecdotally. I’m very abstract in my thinking and reasoning. One of the positives to such an abstracted personality is that I am, I believe, more capable than average of disconnecting my internal sense of morality and beliefs from my actions in judgment of others. I value the idealized judge I wish I had, altruistically, in the actions I take for or against others far more than enforcing any internal emotional perspective I retain. In other words, I care about the community members more than my principals that are intended to better said community. I will never attempt to hurt the community to shape it to my will or dilutions of an ideologue incapable of adjusting to reality, even dystopia.

As a person, I’ll never shut up or stop pointing out that proprietary is the refuge of criminal thieves and cowards. That it is selling yourself and ultimately citizenship and democracy in the biggest picture. However, as a moderator I welcome all to share their experiences in 3d printing, completely unhindered and openly. I will not stop them from sharing in any way, but I will not silence those that object for moral reasons either, so long as both sides remain respectful and positive overall. Hopefully that clearly defines my stance and puts any doubts to rest.

There is no reason to worry about the ambiguity of that moderator tag here. I engaged, therefore in this place, by my own rules, I am not a mod in this instance or any other similar instance. I will always tell users directly if I question or engage as a moderator, and this is only applicable in instances where I am not already involved. As a mod, I am only here as the janitor to herd bots and sort out issues like bigotry. The community is just as much yours as it is mine as a mod and as a user. As a fellow human, I do not matter here any more than you.

The entire hobby should have started in the 1980’s. It did not because of proprietary anti competitive cowards. RepRap and Adrian Bowyer created the entire 3d printing hobby and community. The whole thing only exists because of these. The exploitation of this community is the only issue I care about. I will call out thieves every time. You may love stollen goods. I can’t change your ethics. I will not call them reasonable or morally right.

In know the history of 3d printing and why I got involved. Bambu changed everything for the worst and forced everyone to lower expectations and business practices. They have been the most toxic community influence to date. Proprietary theft is criminal.

It is just a wire and connector. That isn’t Prusa. If it was a bambu you would be buying a new printer without an upgrade path, and since a new printer came out, your old suddenly stops working right like some Apple product. Believe it or not, bambu printers have connectors, likely from the same global supplier too.

The quick fix is to remove the connector from both sides, yes the female too. Then solder the connection directly. You can add some hot glue for strain relief. You’ll still likely have the other side of the connector. If not, who cares, “it just works.”

I know it is a pain, and irritating, Prusa wiring is probably the weakest link. I redid pretty much every wire to make them exactly to length and routed properly when building my MK3 because it bugged me.

I would not try to crimp a new terminal properly given your admission of mechanical ability. Getting a good crimp with a small connector is tricky without experience. It would be easier to order the same connector wire precrimped and replace the end of the wire. Then do a splice a few inches higher. Or just order the parts.

If you need to replace a pin on the PCB, it MUST be done carefully or you’ll lift a trace. It is a job that should be done with a full soldering station. However I could do it with a candle and a nail in a zombie apocalypse. The trick is in only barely heating the pin enough to melt the solder completely. That requires a soldering iron tip with as much heat mass as possible so that you do not need too much heat to compensate for the temp drop upon contact. If none of this makes sense, just buy the replacement parts.

Sorry for the bad day, seriously.

I’ve tried 3 times so far in Python/gradio/Oobabooga and never managed to get certs to work or found a complete visual reference guide that demonstrates a complete working example like what I am looking for in a home network. (Only really commenting to subscribe to watch this post develop, and solicit advice:)

The only review I care/cared about is when someone actually uses the thing. I don’t care what they review. I care about all the projects they do later using a machine. When I was buying, everyone was defaulting to a Prusa. When everything else broke they used a MK3, so that is hat I got. Also, only people with Prusa’s seemed to be actually printing while only owning one printer. Everyone yapping about cheap printers had a half dozen of which only one or two ever worked at the same time. That is way more expensive than buying one machine.

Since then, Prusa has gone less and less open source and community driven. I still value true ownership without strings attached more than any other feature. To trust someone else’s proprietary scam and potential manipulation is to sell yourself to rent a product. Prusa is now selling a proprietary printer too. I would be very cautious about them going forward. The real open source community is with Voron and many projects supported by LDO kits.

But it doesn’t happen when plugged in and the thing is powered but no SD card? If that is the case, it is likely software… If you take out the SD card you could use a 4k7 resistor between 5v and the gate of the MOSFET to test triggering the FET and if it then turns off. A 4k7 resistor at 5v is just over 10mA and shouldn’t hurt anything.

5v logic triggered MOSFETs are tricky in practice when designing circuits. Back when I was getting stuff from AliEx, I got a bunch of overburden FETs that were supposed to be logic level gates and only around a quarter actually worked right. It is to be expected and they were like a penny each. Many work at slightly higher voltages of 6-7 volts though. They are often labeled like old part numbers but they don’t have the same specifications as the old parts. Things like this have become kinda ubiquitous and very hard to track down.

Removing the SD card shows whether there is a burned or shorted connection somewhere, but does not show if a gate is staying high after it is triggered. HCT logic is translating CMOS threshold voltages on the input to TTL levels at the output. Still while the window of where bit logic high and low are specified, the actual logic zero voltage is relatively high. You also have to remember that all chip manufacturers have an error rate distribution curve and send bad parts or parts that are right on the edge of acceptable. It is quite possible that you happened to get a FET with a low gate threshold voltage and a logic gate with abnormally high logic zero threshold. I would just tack on a through hole resistor between gate and source similar to how Fan 2 MOSFET control is configured and see if that solves the issue.

I’m not effectively able to help with the software, so this may still be a red herring, but I do not think removing the SD card effectively addresses the question of whether the gate is driven low correctly.

Is the FET gate floating? Maybe try adding a pull down/up resistor as a sanity check. I have no Duet experience. Based on what you are saying, I would troubleshoot that hardware first. Cut the trace and see if the gate signal is going off as expected… things like that.

Anybody else always take these numbers and divide by 100k for a very rough overestimate of what kinds of Western labor an amount is capable of?

Essentially, this is saying 1500 people working together for control over dialogue are capable of reshaping the entire world view. I don’t support genocide, but I can also see calculated, competent, and very capable people. When they put a number on such an objective, it is not some random guess buy. Just 1500 to take the reigns of the collective public mind.

These guys seem to imply taking out a non load bearing wall does not require a permit: https://remodelingdoneright.nari.org/homeowner-resources/questions-to-ask/when-do-i-need-a-permit

That implies all the electrical, flooring, ceiling, and attic work is not a factor either. Altering a load bearing wall would require permitting. That is how I’ve always heard it said too. It is not a great primary source, bit I don’t care more than a basic search and first link I see reply either, so it is confirmation biased as such.

There is usually a dollar amount involved for what can be done before a permit is required. You’re allowed to make minor changes required in the spirit of maintenance. So something like replacing a refrigerator and the old width being too small. If you cut the countertop to accommodate, no permit is legally required. The same can be said about almost every aspect of the home. That margin of what exactly is considered maintenance versus modification is what varies by area.

The other factor I’ve heard is that the changes must fall into what’s undefined on the blueprints of record. If it is not specified in the blueprints, you are free to make the changes.

Again, I’m no expert here. I really wish I had the option to remove the mod badge when I only wish to post as a user. I could certainly be wrong. This is intended as a helpful but just water cooler talk amongst friends level conversation. When it comes to house mods and permits, this is how everyone I know does things.

Maybe chemistry is an issue too. Septic is what, methane/(?)?

Generally, regulations are for construction contractors. You likely won’t pass some kind of plumbing inspection if you hired a contractor to do something that requires a permit, but otherwise you’re free to do whatever. I’m no expert here, and you should be doing due diligence. My old man does inspecting type work in another type of industry and this is how it was explained to me, but that is an unrelated field. Different regions may have very different regulations.

I’m totally the same. My room is mostly a wreck but I could manage everything about 3 bike shops all at the same time with precision and efficiency.

When I did auto body work, I had everything I needed on carts within arm’s reach. That is where I got my speed. Each panel might take 100 operations to complete but I worked on 3-5 cars at the same time wheeling my carts and stool around to each one as fast as I could, meanwhile, my house was always a wreck and I couldn’t find anything.

Depends on what you’re taking. Like with my regular Adderall, I can cut doses for a few days and then get back the sharpness when I return.

Your diet plays a major role. Sugar intake, especially processed stuff will impact your stomach acid production and therefore how long you absorb the meds before they degrade. If you take an antacid it will boost things massively, but those will wreck your stomach microbiome and ultimately create worse effects on the days thereafter.

The one that amazes me is that, I prefer Adderall as a pain distraction more than any prescription pain drugs.