Don’t dry filament in the oven. Simply put the filament spool on the print bed, set it to 60°C (PLA) or 70°C (PETG) and cover it with a cardboard box to trap the heat. Poke 3 holes in the box to lead damp air escape. Let it cook for 2-4h, then flip the spool and wait for another 2-4h. Store in air tight container with some silica gel to keep it dry.

None of the high end chips were made in Chinese fabs, and the device barely qualifies as a “laptop” besides the form factor. For some bizarre reason they used a USB5744 USB 3.2 5Gb/s hub chip, which tells me the following:

• Their CPU doesn’t even have multiple USB3 interfaces
• Their CPU doesn’t even have a single 10GB/s USB interface, which has been standard for may years
• They don’t really care about using local parts only, because they have alternative products like the GL3590

Unless We get better close up tear down photos, this devices primary purpose is propaganda

It’s worth it for the dry storage and automatic loading alone. Printing multiple objects one after another on the same bed and same print job, but with different materials is also a great feature and huge time saver for small parts. For actual multi-material prints the best use cases are imo writing into the first layer with a different color or using 2 different non-adhering materials for a thin layer between supports and the part. All of these things require very little filament changes and significantly improve the usage experience.

Only commenting to give this post even more engagement, lol

What filament do you want to use? Well tuned PLA might be able to bridge that far, no chance with PETG. What is your maximum acceptable sag?

It seems like the bridge lines do not attach to anything at the very end on the layer below. In Orca Slicer you need to enable “Ensure vertical thickness” to enforce that. I’d also rotate the bridge direction by 90°, this cuts down the length of the longest bridges by half. Bridge line spacing looks good to me. Make sure that the layer on top of the bridge is printed slowly and does not start in the middle, otherwise it will be pushed back and forth.

If it is just a mock-up, consider partially filling the interior or enabling “make overhangs printable”. Both will alter geometry, but so will excessive sagging.

A lot of people here commented “I do X and it works for me”, but I do not think that is good advice. While it might work fine for that person, there are too many variables that are ignored. Ambient humidity, filament type, printer model, slicer settings, model geometry/details - all of this has an impact on the final print quality.

A more controlled environment removes variables and therefor makes the print result more predictable. Drying filament and storing it properly takes a bit of effort, but it is easy step towards better results.

You don’t even need a dedicated dryer, just use your printers headbed, put 1-3 spools on it and a cardboard box with a few vent holes on top. Set the temperature according to the filament and let it run for 8 hours. Afterwards put the spools into a sealed container (4L cereal box works great), add some silica gel and your done. When it cools back down the relative humidity drops below 10% RH, which is so low that most hygrometers wont even measure it.

I’m casually printing PETG at 260°C, over 20mm³/s (about 300mm/s) and archive reproducible near perfect results with next to no stringing. With bare PLA drying may not matter, I’ve too little experience to give a definitive answer. If you have any composite filament (wood, carbon, sparkle, etc) you definitely should dry it anyway, because you do not know how much the filler changes the properties.

Oh and finally: I place new spools in containers with dry air (a tiny bit of silica gel in them) and measure the equalized humidity after a few days. Most spools were delivered with a humidity of 15-20% RH

I was thinking It would be best to simply offset the inner walls in the xy axis, so that the printer lays down the next extrusion in the groove between two of the previous lines. This is already done with the hexagon infill pattern in orca slicer, but not yet available for inner walls. It would also be helpful to adjust extrusion to deliberately create large grooves bewteen the lines. Outer walls and cosmetic features should of course printed regularly.

The advantage to OP’s approach would be reduced complexity, less z-hopping and reduced risk of collision with already printed parts.

Normally the toolhead should never hit any object. If it does, and the cover detaches, it can be detected and the printer stopped before any significant damage is caused. Fallen off cover > broken machine.

The cover needs to be detachable to change or replace the hotend, and you need to have the cover for basic protection and better airflow control (I assume), and it’s best practice to have a sensor to protect from user error. If the sensor is already there, why not also use it during the print?

I think the choice comes down to what one values more, the AMS or open firmware. I think the AMS is a fantastic addition, not for multi-color printing, but as a convenient and dry storage solution. All cloud features can be disabled, it perfectly works in the local network including live camera feed. You only loose access to the app, which I didn’t want to install to my all foss phone anyway.

The X1 series uses an application processor with linux under the hood, and it was just a matter of time before it got jailbroken. The P1 series on the other hand uses some microcontroller, which can be locked down much better (and thus is not compatible with the new “open” firmware). I’m exited to see where this goes, and will definitely give up my guarantee in exchange for rooting my printer.

This phone was designed poorly, the magnets are doomed to rip the back glass off eventually.

Damn, this makes it even more infuriating that they don’t offer replacement parts :(

Missed opportunity for using micro pattern print plates or fancy infills like hilbert curve. On the plus side the design of the phone is so unique that I immediately knew that Microsoft doesn’t like the right to repair movement.

Armbian is a thing, and devices like the RK3588 are powerful enough for light desktop use. Performance is still far below that of what any Intel or AMD based system can provide.

The question is: How much data about me and my browser does clicking on the ads leak? I’m using libre wolf with additional hardening, including noscript, and I suspect that clicking on ads will not even register with the ad company?