Audio crackling is also an intermittent thing on windows for me since the latest season. Not sure if it’s the same of course but maybe it’s not solely on proton.

Fosscad.org has a good zip archive, I still see some from time to time on printables aswell.

Since the best available firmware is open source I don’t see any way of imposing limits on it.

The printer itself doesn’t even know what it’s making since it’s reading directions one by one, so any limits would need to be implemented at a slicer level, which are also basically all open source (at least any worth using).

The only way I could see it working would be mandating that all printers sold in the US come with software checks against it and be non reflashable, but considering a new driver board that would be able to drive 95% of printers is about $25 it is nothing more than screaming into the void.

No infinite money sink. Started by printed some upgrades for my printer, now i suddenly have 3 that can waste plastic at significantly higher speeds.

We are already having wifi 6 routers being replaced with 6e capable ones.

Just don’t ask about how few of the devices used actually support 6ghz.

Run the xiaomi.eu ROMs (or lineage if you don’t like miui at all) or use one of the various debloat scripts over ADB. Take a look over on XDA, Xiaomi phones are incredibly well supported by the modding/custom rom community.

Police should have an easier time tho, taser movement speed got buffed.

If you don’t think you need ANC you’ve never experienced good ANC, even the best passive noise isolation won’t quiet down the sound of a full cafeteria or bus.

No wired iems will never be obsolete, but I will just be leaving them at my desk where the downsides over wireless are less.

Having upcoming signs / crossing and speed limits displayed on a small screen between the gauges is something I found quite handy.

The big display in the centre console is something that’s only really usefull for maps / Spotify tho, not the rest of the car controls.

Which then gave us orcaslicer (fork of bambu) which has been a godsent for having my mainsail UI in the slicer itself.

Hopefully we in the Netherlands will finally legalize it as well instead of it being a gray area. Although that would require us to give up on beating Belgium’s record of not forming a government.

ASA and ABS definitely do better at elevated chamber temps. What temp is enough I can’t say but I still saw improvements when going from 50 to 70c. Higher temps also let you use more fan speed without the added risk of warping so you’ll probably see better overhangs even though the temps are higher.

Id start with adding some chamber temp sensors first so you can measure what difference you are making with the other mods.

Using 4 mm abs panels I saw about a 15c improvement by just throwing a fleece blanket over the printer, so that might be an easy fix if you don’t print large parts frequently. Although higher temps are also great for layer adhesion on smaller parts.

Yeah ridga or vzhextrudort style gears definitely help greatly. You could do a mihai style test to see if the artifacts on the i3 are mostly extruder related or from the XY motors.

Tuning drivers consistently for quality is going to require an oscilloscope, although there are some experiments with attaching an accelerator to the motor while doing a frequency sweep.

Of course you could just change settings and see if there is a visual difference, but there are too many settings and combinations to make that realistic.

What chamber temp are you using for such a large part? I’d recommend at least 70+C but that might be hard to reach with acrylic panels.

Your bed will also warp due to the heat since its rigidly mounted.

Surface quality is also driver (+ driver settings) and motor related, and even the combination of them.

You only calibrate E, calculate for XYZ.

Calculate the rotation distance for the Z, if it doesn’t move the correct distance when asked you have a broken part.

2 breadcrumbs and 2 bottles of water is more than 1 i guess.

Only downside is abysmal flowrates with hardened steel unless you’re using a hardened cht. Even the clone hardened steel chts are fine since its actually only the tip of the nozzle that wears fast.

Thinking about this again, could it be you have something like “wait for layer time” on and a very high minimum layer time set for your petg profile?

If its stopping 10 to 20 seconds there’s definitely something in the gcode making the printer hang. I’d try slicing the file again with a different slicer to be sure.