Maybe too loose? Should be tightened completely and then one 360 degree turn

My Anycubic does the same and i read from more people having this problem. You can losen the tension of the belt with the red screw infront of the printer. This fixed it for me.

Go ahead, its worth it.

Yes, it works very well. Like in another answer described, there are multiple run time versions. Im running it in the 15 day a single winding version. Once some problems like too greasy bearings and not too well running gears were solved, it runs just fine. Its possible up to 32 Days but thats a bit of a challenge.

I recommend it. Its a wonderful project.

But is cheap.

It acutally is just for fun. Im trying to find the cheapest weight. I already have a printed weight with BBs in it. Im just dumb. And maybe i can sell one.

https://youtube.com/shorts/TMpMFhpTKqI?feature=share

Its put together just as “proof”, to find the cheapest weight. Steel BBs or Lead Shot, used normally as weight for this clock, cost way more.

Yes, the clock itself is mostly printed besides ball bearings, steel rods, screws, fishing line and pennies for the pendulum.

There are 5 Versions, at least with the 32 day clock. 7, 10, 15, 21 and 32 days runtime. You just change two gears to apply them.

There are other designs with lower possible runtimes, i dont know how many versions they got.

A month ago i posted this clock with another weight, maybe you refer to that post? Assembly was pretty straight forward. It comes with a nice guide. It ran directly after assembly in the 10 day version, i tried 32 days but couldnt get it to run. But ill try again.

Thanks! Love that clock too. Its not that hard to build. If you are thinking about printing it too, just do it.

Had the same issue. Try Z_OFFSET_APPLY_PROBE before SAVE_CONFIG.

If that doesnt help, try Z_OFFSET_APPLY_ENDSTOP instead.

https://filetransfer.io/data-package/Ag7tLgc5#link

yes, its the same gcode/lines. In Prusa its possible to alter Printer Gcodes, in Cura not. There might be differences.

It does the same priming lines, im using the same start gcode. Without it would miss the complete first half of the gears outter wall, oftem from the 5 lines only 3 get printed.

In PrusaSlicer externals first, in cura outside to inside. Whats weird in cura, it prints the outter wall ls first half gears first, then the spokes from the second half.

Should be a slicer problem, with cura its gone…

Thanks for your offer. I tried cura slicer and there the problem is gone. So it is a problem in PrusaSlicer. Here is the gcode, please dont put too much effort into it.

https://filetransfer.io/data-package/i7JoxlFl#link

Its a slicer error. With cura it works correct…

I changed every retraction setting ive found. 2x in PrusaSlicer, 1x on Klipper, nothing changes. But with Cura Slicer the problem is gone. So i obviously f*ed up some setting in PrusaSlicer. Will test more today.

It looks correct in the slicer. I changed the slicer btw and with cura everything works fine. So its something in PrusaSlicer. Will test some more today.

In the first photo the outter perimeters were completely print and the inner started to print. The outer perimeter from the first tooth is missing, so theres only the inner one. In PrusaSlicer the perimeters are correct, the nozzle moves correctly but no filament is coming out. It begins with the second tooth. I let the nozzle draw 5 lines prior to the printing so the pressure in the hot end is correct. I guess its a retraction issue, maybe the slicer retraction settings are ignored by the firmware, ill look into that tomorrow.

Anyways, here a picture of the first layer: