I’m not 100% sure because I’m fairly new as well but I’d try going with 25 seconds for the bottom layers and adding a bit of wait time before lifting.
It looks like your bottom layers did fine but maybe the normal layers didn’t adhere properly to the bottom layers. That could explain why you had some sticking to the FEP.
I’d also make sure the FEP sheet is is good shape. No big scratches or dents.
Did the print complete but not turn out or did the printer stop early with an error?
Check out Formlabs resin printers. They have special resins that may do what you need. They also have sales people on staff to walk you through everything.
They’re pretty pricey for a hobbyist (at least for this hobbyist) but a business may be ok with it.
10-4. I hear you.
For labs sells a biocompatible resin for medical use. I’ll probably end up switching to that.
I just looked in to a vibratory tumbler, they aren’t cheap!
Thanks!
Everything I found said that cured resin is inert. I did see that there are biocompatible resins out there but they seem to be mostly used in dental applications. I’ll keep searching though.
Elegoo clear blue ABS like resin.
I’ve thought about attaching a jar to my drill and turning the part in some kind of medium.
What kind of parameters need adjusting for your process?
Appreciate that detailed explanation. I probably should have put something in the picture for scale. This is about 2.5cm in diameter. Not sure I could get a buffing tool small enough to be useful.
They are indeed support marks. I’ve already messed with orientation and this is the position with the least marks so far. I haven’t really messed with support settings yet. Thanks for the idea.
Very similar thing happened to me. It felt weird for a little over a year. Like I wasn’t sure who’s eyes I was looking out of.
I can’t afford diagnosis either and I don’t think it would be super useful for me. What it did change is how I organize my life. Now I make sure to have ear plugs/noise cancelling headphones with me. I make sure to have time on my own and/or doing the things I’m in to. The best thing is that I no longer feel like a moron because I’ve mishandled a social situation. Now I can chalk it up to not understanding, learn something, and move on.
Best of luck in your journey!
10-4, thanks for the detailed response!
Getting shot at is bad for your health, got it
The first layer needs to stick to the build plate well. If it doesn’t stick the print will fail and best case you’ll need to start again.
First layers are notoriously fiddly to get right because there are so many variables that affect it.
Really depends on the models in my opinion. Small highly detailed models would do better in resin.
I started in FDM and then went to resin. For me resin is way easier. Far less fiddling with hardware.
They’re a board game POD service https://www.thegamecrafter.com/
They said they’d do the injection moulding in PVC? If so you’d be fine making prototypes/demos in resin.
Also, have you in to the game crafter to see if they can do what you need?
If your pieces are detailed I’d recommend a resin printer. I just got an anycubic photon mono x2 and I’m finding it excellent. I printed this x-wing a couple days ago.
I’m curious if you could imagine any information that would shift your position on any of your ideas? I’m not trying to be a dick, genuinely wondering.
Reducing the time won’t help with adhesion to the build plate but an overexposed layer might make the following layer less likely to adhere correctly. I always do 25sec on my bottom layers and never have adhesion problems so I figured it could work for you too.