Overhangs were the biggest issue I found. So much so that I moved back to a 0.4 after a month of faff trying to find settings that would compensate.

I use my printer mainly for minis, and figures that would print supportless on the 0.4 nozzle needed huge amounts of supports at 0.2 in order to print without missing chins etc.

That said, the level of detail that I could achieve was better, particularly on the hair, but not enough to compensate for all of the extra faff and wasted plastic.

Is it possible to just tell them it’s a medical appointment, but it’s about something that you don’t feel comfortable talking about?

It’s the truth, it explains the secrecy about the appointment, but it keeps the secret.

The trouble with “creepy” is that it’s emotive. Although it’s absolutely a correct word to use, it can easily be dismissed as an insult.

“Weird” is less of an insult, and can be taken objectively. I’ve got OCD, I know I’m weird - I’d be lying if I pretended otherwise.

But the thing is, Trump and Co don’t just want to be seen as “normal”, they want to be seen as the best at “normal”.

This is why “weird” works. It’s possible to argue that Trump being creepy is just someone else’s opinion, but it’s very hard to deny that he doesn’t do and say some weird things.

This is sticking because, even with the ludicrous amounts of good-faith his supporters have for him, it’s undeniably true, and possibly taps into any underlying misgivings they may have.

At the very simplest, you can just overlap things in the slicer without Blender.

If you want to learn about Blender’s Sculpt mode, you can just Google “Blender Sculpt mode tutorial”. For convenience, try to use the most recent results, as the interface can be slightly different in older versions.

Sculpt mode effectively allows you to alter the models as if they were made of clay or plasticine.

A lot of the tutorials will be showing how to make things from scratch, but what’s important is that you see how the tools work.

Once you have everything overlapping the way you want, you can join the using a Boolean operation. You’ll want to use a “union” operation.

To avoid the gaps you can line them up with an overlap.

You can adjust the vertices of the model slightly to help facilitate this. The most natural-feeling way to do it in Blender is by using the Sculpt mode.

You can use a Boolean addition operation to then make the two models a single piece of geometry. Or not bother (if you are printing on FDM or at 100% infill in resin, it won’t really hurt either way).

I mostly print stuff for DnD and wargaming, so I just run off a few 25mm bases - I can always use them!

You made a clerical error.

I’ve heard of Pukka Pies, but never seen one in the wild. Looked into it, apparently it’s broadly a North / South thing.

Apparently the biggest difference is that Pukka pastry is more flaky, Holland’s pastry is more stodgy (better).

I’ve long been priced out of fish at the chippy. If Putin comes after the Holland’s pies, then you’ll have my attention.

Fwiw, I don’t recommend an ender. Admittedly it’s capable of great things, but certainly not out of the box.

Although it’s not a huge selection, the best printer I’ve used in terms of ease and quality is the FLSun Q5. Prints great out of the box, auto-levels, easy to repair, plus it’s a delta (which are just magical to watch).

Not a mod, but for what’s it’s worth, I’d be interested in seeing it.

Weirdly, it’s the opposite for us - my grandad, my dad, me and my daughters even all went to the exact same tiny primary school (obviously over the span of 100 years!). We don’t move very far at all.

That said, my parents now live in France. Maybe it just kicks in later for our family.

If you’re the DM, you can just fall back on Rule Zero - the rules are what you say they are :)

You’ve done a really nice thing - I’m sure these kids will never forget it. I sometimes forget how much harder it was just to acquire stuff as kids.

Honestly, I think it’s just a matter of Games Workshop doing a Nokia - the company became successful focusing on creating good products then changed to focusing on making money. (Fun fact - a Nokia engineer actually created a prototype smartphone before LG or Apple, but the money guys felt sticking with the old super-profitable ones was the way to win).

The biggest advantage over 40k, from my perspective, is that Grimdark Future uses turns, I.e. ‘my unit, your unit’ instead of ‘my whole army, your whole army’. Each side moves each unit once per round, but you just take turns moving units getting there.

Grimdark Future Firefight is my favourite though - instead of huge battles, you take smaller teams. It feels more cinematic. Units don’t die as easily and you can pin a unit with suppressive fire. If you attack someone on the edge of a platform and knock them down, you can boot them over the edge. And best of all, it’s fast - games can be wrapped up in under an hour easily.

Oh, almost forgot - you don’t actually have to buy anything either. The standard version of the game, with army lists for all armies, is free. The army building app is free. You can buy advanced rules if you want more nitty gritty, but you’re literally good to go right now.

May I recommend trying Grimdark Future, in that case. Particularly Grimdark Future: Firefight.

The 40k lore is fantastic and tons of fun. Unfortunately the rules not so much. The rules of Grimdark Future, by contrast, are very clean and well balanced.

Fortunately, you can map the lore of 40k directly onto Grimdark Future (like I suspect most people do) and end up with the best of both worlds.

Another big advantage of Grimdark Future over 40k is that it is mini agnostic. If you want to use 40k minis, go for it. If you want to use 3rd Party minis, that’s fine too. Lego people, plastic soldiers, pebbles - all good.

By contrast, the official line for playing 40k in Games Workshop Stores and GW Tournaments is that the minis need to be GW, no 3rd Party minis allowed. (It didn’t used to be this way, and many store owners will be happy to turn a blind eye, but that’s the official stance).

If you are interested in this route, Wargames Atlantic do a superb line of very affordable minis that can be used - Death Fields.

Honestly can’t say a bad word against Morrisons - at least from a customer point of view.

I do feel bad for the drivers who seem to have gigantic catchment areas, but they’re always friendly, the bags are well packed, and the subs are sane.

Note: we do still buy things like meat in-store, because we’re picky.

Sorry, but they’re the rules of the game.

You’re right, there are many bits about the driving test that are suboptimal, but the aim here isn’t to be 100% optimal, it’s to make it clear to the examiner that you’re doing the checks.

That’s all it is.

I was a mess when I was younger, especially in these kinds of situations - it took me eight attempts to pass my driving test, and my instructor could never understand why I kept failing. As an adult, I’m much happier with there being different rules for variants of situations, but when I was younger it just felt wrong.

I shudder to think what the answer to this will be, but… How do you propose this should be done?

Exactly this. I still use a 0.4 nozzle and the results are more than satisfactory.

These figures were all support-free designs by EC3D, and are a joy to print.

At 0.08mm layers, you can feel the lines with a fingernail, but can’t see the from more than a few cm away.

I have to agree with this - our Hermes people (one guy, one lady) are lovely. Honestly, everyone’s really good here apart from Parcel Force. They are genuinely the reason I’ll no longer buy anything from abroad - just to avoid having to deal with their wholesale ineptitude once the package reaches Britain.