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Joined 7 months ago
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Cake day: February 15th, 2024

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  • This discusses the pontoons and the partyboat or “pleasure boat” as it’s referred to in the article. They can be very stable, but they need to be pretty wide and as they saw in the video, you still want the boat to ride pretty low in relation to the size of pontoons you use.

    A daggerboard is a type of centerboard that can be pulled up through a slot in the hull. Centerboards are mostly used in sailboats, but the reason they’re needed is that in terms of forces acting a boat, sailing makes it top-heavy as fuck. This benchy is naturally top-heavy, so having a fin sticking down in to water helps, and having a weight on the end of it helps even more.

    Ultimately, I imagine they ran across most of these concepts in preparing the video, but it wasn’t as fun for their intended audience as a silly low-stakes 3D Printing YOLO meme, and TBF the 3D printing seems to have come off very well.


  • So I think the little bit they added is still there, but it just wasn’t nearly enough. TBF, there’s nothing inherently “wrong” with making a boat wider rather than deeper (e.g. the aforementioned partyboats), but as they saw it doesn’t scale quite how you’d think, and much of the benefit they got from the pontoons that did work would have been there even if they’d left it flat.

    Also, I guess the apparent half-assery is part of the appeal? I am not familiar with this Emily. I kind of assumed it was going to be an Emily Calandrelli video, but then I’m a dad who’s watched a LOT of kids’ Netflix.





  • Like I said, I didn’t do the actual paperwork, but it seemed intentionally thorough, maybe even verging on onerous, but not like they were trying to trick you. We did have to find every single birth or death or marriage certificate along the way, eventually landing on an actual Luxembourgish record matching the name and timeframe pretty closely, and because it was through a female line, she had to physically go to Luxembourg (she has trips to Amsterdam from time to time, so it wasn’t too bad). The whole process took a few months IIRC, and involved lots of emails, letters, and checks to various counties in Minnesota and North Dakota.



  • As an adopted person, I did 23andme and a couple others over a decade ago. With a lot of online resources and good advice and friendly DNA cousins (some of whom I’m still in contact with), I was able to triangulate my birth family. Assuming that rumors of a surprise cousin in Texas didn’t actually cause all the relatives who’ve tested since to do so, it would be way easier to track it down today than it was then, when 3rd-cousin-ish was as good as I had available.

    I might be eligible for a couple of passports from the paternal side (interesting family story), but it would require actually getting my obviously alcoholic and possibly mentally ill bio-father to acknowledge me and that he was never located to sign over any rights in the 70s. I’ve already got one dysfunctional dad, and while I’m very firmly convinced that 99.9% of adoptees should be allowed to who their birth family is, beyond that we have to deal with the same shit everybody else does, including people who want no-contact, so my motivation to follow this up has been limited.

    I was able to find enough straightforward records to help my wife and kiddo get Luxembourg citizenship. I did the research, and an immigration firm retained by her employer did the actual paperwork. I should be able to tag along with them if the shit hits the fan here in the States, which is nice. :-)



  • I did a quasi-deep dive into licensing terms of the various suites. OnShape’s free tier is particularly clumsy, and on a facial reading bars you from using your own designs commercially, but allows you (and literally every other user) free rein on other people’s designs. It’s quite odd and will probably need litigation to sort out. Then they have nothing between the free tier and the $1800/year tier.

    Fusion gives you, IIRC, a grace zone of a thousand bucks of revenue a year before it counts as commercial and you have to get the $600/year paid plan, which seems suspiciously close to how much profit a no-overhead side hustle might pull from $1000 of sales. Solidworks hobbyist gives you $2k of profit grace per year, and when combined with a Titans of CNC discount, makes it a pretty good option for the “let me sell a couple of things on Etsy crowd,” but it’s a much bigger price jump than Fusion if you need to get a commercial license (basically about $2000 a year, I think… sensing a pattern here).

    Solid Edge keeps it simple and just says that the free version is for non-commercial use only, though as a locally installed app I’m surprised it’s not more popular.

    I was continuing to struggle with FreeCAD, though it’s getting better with every weekly release, and they have a little bit of outside money coming into the project now. Still, I “treated” myself to a $700 permanent Alibre license. I like the workflow and the focus on the workbenches I actually use, and after ten payments I’ll be able to use this particular version however I like for as long as it runs. Not perfect, being closed source and Windows, but they’re a responsive small company in a crowded space, so I don’t think they’re going to fuck over the paying customers too badly.


  • I mostly play older games on my Ryzen 5 2400g with 16gb of RAM and an RX 580 I bought off a crypto miner, though I did manage to get Starfield running at 1080P in Win10 with a framerate and detail level that doesn’t make me want to gouge my eyes out. Still, I think I should be pretty undemanding for the current state of Linux gaming, and I’m just about ready to bail on Windows but haven’t yet. Currently dual booting with Kubuntu.

    Beyond a few stubborn games, I have Windows CAD software I think I could run in a VM with maybe 8GB of RAM and access to my GPU. What’s the easiest way for a motivated amateur to get that set up? Having come up with MS-DOS, I am comfortable with a CLI conceptually, and I can copy and paste commands like a mofo, but I generally don’t know the exact use and flags well enough to do much on my own beyond apt and mkdir. :-)







  • The pinout on the orange B&D is exactly the same as PC 20v, and there’s only like two little nubbins of plastic on the battery case, and two tabs on the PC tools that make them physically incompatible. I use them interchangeably after some dremel engineering (that gets nowhere near the electricals). Same as those now-retired Bostitch 18v, and I understand non-US “fat max” batteries and a certain limited line of 20v craftsman stuff from a decade ago is also the “same.”

    The newer Craftsman that S-B&D makes looks to have been designed along similar lines, but they flipped + and - and added enough plastic-work that I think it’d be non-trivial to hack them up. I haven’t investigated to see whether, electrically speaking, they are more B&D or more DeWalt.


  • I did this with a gi-fucking-normous Ridgid “X2” my dad got me when I was in college. It was originally niCAD, though it is actually compatible with their current batteries. However, I had cobbled together a collection of electrically compatible low-end stuff from Stanley-B&D that just needed a couple of kisses from a dremel to fit each other. Everything but that one drill is either B&D, Porter Cable, or Bostitch (not the nailguns that use dewalt batteries, rather some drill/drivers from when they were the brand SBD tried to pawn off on Walmart as better Black and Decker but won’t cannibalize PC sales).

    The old Ridgid is too heavy to have as my main drill, but it works fine. I keep a countersink bit in it and it’s nice to have around. These B&D batteries have some basic overcharge and over-discharge circuits in them and shouldn’t mind which device they’re plugged into. The DeWalts are the ones that rely on more sophisticated circuitry in the tools to manage batteries, so they’re the ones you generally want to avoid playing with.