• 2 Posts
  • 19 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
cake
Cake day: July 14th, 2023

help-circle


  • SOLUTION: runs contrary to common knowledge, but what ultimately helped was:

    • INCREASING print speed. The usual recommendation is the slower the better, but at that point, there’s no pressure control over the filament
    • ENABLING retraction. Again, usual rec is to disable it for flexibles but turns out it alleviates too much backpressure which leads to filament buckling in the extruder

    Also printing hotter than mfg recommends: I printed at 260 (10C over recommended maximum).

    Thanks to u/Over_Pizza_2578 for pointing me to the right - opposite to everything else - direction.




  • For me the responsivity of Klipper UI was reason enough. Octoprint is unbelievably slow on the same hardware. The other thing was ease of configuration - no firmware compilation and flashing necessary. And the third is the actual printing performance - Octoprint has a really bad implementation of the actual print data transfer, and the serial interface routinely chokes on fine data such as arcs. That never happens with Klipper, even at much, much higher print speeds.







  • Absolutely wrong. I have dozens of devices integrated, from a lot of brands, all working. You can of course try to get a turnkey solution from like Loxone, but be prepared to pay thousands of dollars, and good luck adding anything that’s not in their ecosystem. And there’s a lot of that. And what is there is all pretty outdated.

    Xiaomi is great and I use a lot of their stuff, but the options for automation are severely limited.



  • stooovie@lemmy.worldOPto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldEnder of worlds
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    8
    ·
    edit-2
    1 year ago

    I have, but I’ve reached the point where I can just send stuff to it and it materalizes, without lots of tweaking and tuning, and I intend to keep it that way for a while :) as you probably know, upgrading these printers usually means fucking everything up and gradually rebuilding


  • stooovie@lemmy.worldOPto3DPrinting@lemmy.worldEnder of worlds
    link
    fedilink
    English
    arrow-up
    7
    ·
    edit-2
    1 year ago

    thanks! oh boy, I don’t have the time for finding specific info and models, but

    • PEI sheet
    • metal BMG extruder clone from Aliexpress
    • hotend cooling fan is a 4020 for lower noise
    • shroud is an enlarged stock-like one to accomodate the bigger fan
    • PSU fan is a large 8020 with buck converter to lower RPM, with printed case and grille
    • drawer, handlebar, base fan cover, filament guide, tool holder and toolbox all from Thingiverse
    • my own holder for the Xiaomi phone acting as a screen for Klipper (my first model :)
    • Rpi3 with Klipper in the ugly box on the left (printed wrong orientation, it’s bottom up)
    • Capricorn PTFE tube
    • printed springy feet for lower vibrations
    • BLTouch clone by Fysetc
    • yellow springs
    • Creality 4.2.7 silent board as I have somehow managed to fry the default one, plus it’s gloriously silent

    What’s absolutely essential is the dual-gear extruder and the PEI bed. All the other stuff are nice-to-haves.