Congrats! I’ve had mine for a few months now and aside from a faint z-banding issue that I keep forgetting to tackle, it’s still working like a champ.

It tells me to clean the printer nozzle after every use. What does that mean?

I’ve never seen that, is it showing you that message on the touchscreen? Generally speaking, it’s a good idea to unload any remaining filament between prints, especially before it gets too brittle to remove.

Is the pliers that comes with it just for cutting the excess or am I missing something?

It’s primarily for cutting filament, like trimming that blobby piece off after unloading filament from the printer, but it’s also helpful when removing stubborn supports, brims, etc.

Can I keep it together and just put a cover over it if it won’t get knocked or messed with? Someone recommended putting it back in the box when not in use.

You can purchase or build an enclosure for it if you like, which can be useful both for storage and printing, but if it’s not too dusty, you can leave it out in the open. Just wipe with a microfiber cloth before your next print. Garbage bags can also work as a dust cover in a pinch as well, but make sure your printer’s had a chance to cool down before covering.

I made a flat print of a plaque and it started to curl on the edges, should I have cleaned the board after the buddha or is that normal for flat prints?

Large, flat prints can be tough to master since there’s lots of variables involved. (Platform might not be hot enough/too hot/unevenly heated, bed may need better leveling, could be affected by room temp, etc.) Brims & rafts do help, but sometimes an enclosure is needed to retain the right ambient temperature. Regardless, it’s always a good idea to clean the print bed before each session and sometimes even between prints, like if it’s dusty or when you accidentally touch the bed.

Yeah, it’s pretty overwhelming when you’re first starting out. Aside from budget constraints and the type of printing material used, you need to ask yourself, do I want to tinker with the hardware AND have the time to do so. That will steer you in the right direction.

Personally, I don’t, which is why I bought a Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro several months ago. It’s very similar to the S1 Pro in many ways. I’d recommend taking a look at that one since it’s been well reviewed and also has been working like a champ for me. It’s not perfect, but it’s got the best bang for your budget, especially when first starting out, and it works right out of the box.

Creality’s been a popular brand for years due to the low price point of their printers and its modding community. However, their base printers use cheaper parts, plus their QA isn’t always that great, so I would hesitate recommending them for your first printer.

Overall, nearly anything from Prusa will print with beautiful results, and if you run into a snag, they’ve got robust support to back you up, justifying why they’re more expensive than other printers.

Other companies like Bambu Labs and Flashforge make easy to use 3d printers, with the former getting a lot of deserved hype for how fast their models can print. While they both offer great products, keep in mind that they use closed source designs and require you to buy replacement parts from them, which can hurt you in the long term if something’s discontinued and/or if the company folds. If all that doesn’t jive with you, look elsewhere.

TL;DR: Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro over the S1 Pro since Creality can ship lemons; Prusa = quality + support + $$$; closed sourced printers offer simplicity now with potential drawbacks later.

Could it be they’re both right? I mean, it’s possible that if you start rotating the model a few degrees on the z-axis, the measured dimensions on the platform might change.

Or, if it’s not a resin printer, you could always try the quick & dirty way: slice & start the print, pause it right after it extrudes the outline of the first layer (before it starts filling it in), and then measure the tolerances; resume if accurate, cancel if it’s off.

Most phone apps likely won’t reach the quality of a standalone scanner for a variety of reasons. For instance, a lot of the ones I’ve played with don’t optimize the shutter speed, which can wreck havoc when some captures contain motion blur.

That said, have you tried the free 3d Scanner App yet for iOS? Yes, you may need to clean up your scans like any other phone app, but since it also lets you use the front-facing TrueDepth sensor as well as the rear, it can return a pretty darn good scan when it can combine that TrueDepth data with the usual photogrammetry point cloud. Plus, it’s got a bunch of post-processing tools to modify your scans afterwards, like cropping out extraneous elements using a box or a sphere, selecting mesh pieces to remove/retain, etc. It’ll also export to SketchFab as well as your usual 3d printable file formats.

And no, I’m not affiliated with it; I’m just a happy user who was able to successfully use it to 3d print my doggo sleeping as well as scan some gallery exhibits.

But was it super easy?