If the print didn’t come off the bed, I don’t think adjusting z-offset will help. As prints get taller, if you’re running into issues with warping the corners will start to curl up.
Your printer definitely missed some x or y steps. Whether that was due to your drivers getting too hot and just that, or the extruder running into the print. Have you ever seen your printer do this:
It looks like you missed some x and/or y steps, which made the printer lose its orientation and make a lot of spaghetti.
Possible causes usually involve warping, the nozzle catching the wrapped up piece, and then your printer missing some steps.
Have you completed a large print before?
If nothing’s changed since you last print, including the filament, I would suspect a jam/clog. Is the extruder clicking?
So, the biggest difference in quality is the steel and hardness.
My question was rooted in how you would know the quality/hardness of the steel at time of purchase - especially as a (fairly) layperson.
I think my set is dewalt. It included taps, dies, and drill bits for M3-M7. I don’t think I’ve ever used the drills, and the have gotten a lot more use than the dies, but I think I’ve used almost everything in the kit more than once. Before kids, it was cars. Post kids, it’s mostly cheap Chinese furniture my wife buys that I have to chase threads in to get it to assembly well.
Also, for the record, you can absolutely tap plastic for a reasonably strong thread
I’ve had pretty good success sizing 3D printed holes to be interference fit. That’s how I designed/printed the bed leveling thumb wheels for my i3 clone. They backed off far less frequently than the stock metal once.
If it’s stripped, I doubt chasing the threads with a m4 tap will accomplish much. Tapping it for the next size up (m5) seems like a good choice.
What would you consider a high quality tap or die? I have a cheap(er) set that I got at home cheapo. With how little use it gets, its biggest issue is surface rust from sitting in my garage 24/7.
Was the hot end pre-assembled or did you assemble it? I suspect you have a mechanical issue, but it might just be e-steps.
Suggestions:
Pull the nozzle off, measure say 110 mm of filament upstream of your extruder motor, make a line or attach a piece of tape, extruder 100mm, and see how close to 100mm you are. No nozzle means you can do this cold so you’ve eliminated 2 variables: a nozzle clog and temp. More detailed instructions
Once you get that sorted, do a PID tune and run the 100mm extrusion test again with your nozzle attached at say 230. Different number? My money would be on a partial nozzle clog.
Finally, temp tower. Not being able to extrude below 220 seems very weird. How fast are you trying to print?
Ah, sorry. That does sound a bit hot for PLA. I still suggest a temp tower. If you’re having bed adhesion issues, have you cleaned your bed with dish soap lately? Be sure to use only paper towel to clean/dry it - not a sponge or towel. If that’s impractical, I’ve found Windex to work better than IPA.
For PETG that’s not that hot. On my i3 clone I was usually 70 bed and 230-235 nozzle. I would try a temp tower and do what looks best. Based on what you’ve said so far, temp does seem like a possible culprit.
That you’re looking for is called a flange mount. If you search your favorite search engine with “2mm flange mount” you’ll find some results. I do wonder how much torque you’ll be able to transfer, but given the shaft size I suspect you’re not looking at big loads.
They are harsh chemicals and people definitely aren’t even disposong of them correctly most of the time
This is what really gets me with resin printing :(
Aluminum’s expansion coefficient is 0.000023m/C. Using my Voron, let’s say the z extrusions are 530mm long and my extrusions go from 22 °C to 55 °C. This means they grow 0.35mm. That’s in total, so the effect at the print head isn’t 0.35mm, but let’s say my gantry rides 25% of the way up. That’s 0.0875mm, which is roughly 3x the z-offset of my last print.
2.4 owner here. Happy to hear some feedback on the SV08, it looks like a pretty good deal.
Fast (printed something that took 26 hours on the Ender, and it took less than 4 on the SV08
I’m surprised you saw that much of a speed improvement, but I guess I ran my old i3 clone somewhat fast. My print times were a bit faster on my Voron, thanks to cranking speed and acceleration, but the biggest time savings came from taking advantage of the much better hot end and using a 0.6mm nozzle with thicker line widths (I can cover nearly 2.0mm with two perimeters) and thicker layers (0.3 on most prints these days).
Finicky for the initial z-offset. Heat soak the bed for 30 min at 65 degrees, then run the automatic z-offset
Were you homing z with the bed cold? If homing z involves touching the build plate, I could see this. You could probably just adjust your start g-code to accommodate this. One of the nice things about the 2.4 is that the z end stop is bolted to the frame, so as long as your print routine is consistent you can dial it pretty easily.
That said, just wait until you enclose your printer. The frame will grow in z fairly significantly as it heats up. I’ve not let my printer heat soak, printed a number of sequential parts in one print, and watched the first layer squish getting worse and worse with each sequential part. Eventually filament won’t even stick to the build plate, so you need to tweak z-offset.
If you’re a Klipper user, odds are you’ll have easy access to both print hours and filament length extruded. Some marlin printers also track this information as well.
Granted, nozzle wear is also filament specific, but it’s better than nothing.
Let’s start backwards:
All of this sounds somewhat expensive TBH. Consider why you’re considering a new printer then ask yourself what on the market will help meet those needs - especially at your price point.
Very cool! What kind of optical quality do you get? The action shot on thingiverse is pretty low resolution :( what does it look like at higher magnification? Any depth of field fun going on thanks to the big sensor?
A few days ago were you printing the same part or a different one? Has anything at all changed with your setup or slicing?
Things I would go after, in order:
I’m personally not a fan of glue or adhesion aids, but to each their own. I’ve had the magnetic build plate pulled up, along with the print, from my bed due to warping in the past, but the warping was due to printing a big part in too cold of an environment. Once I addressed that, my problem went away.
Just an option to throw on the table: https://openscan.eu/
What are you overwhelmed with? Which option to go with? What to expect as far as post processing? Accuracy? Something else?
If cost is your design constraint, and you want a CoreXY design, think about what drives the Voron BOM cost and optimize around that. Without thinking about it too much, the thing that jumps to mind are the 4x (2,4) or 3x (trident) z motors. Reducing beyond 3 will not allow you to get the gantry mechanically in plane with the bed, but that didn’t stop Bambu labs from using a single motor on the z-axis for the x1 and p1. Ditching the cable chains for a CAN or USB toolhead would also probably save some cost out of the gate (fewer wires + you won’t have to buy the cable chains).
Also consider what your design goals are. In the case of single vs 3/4 z motors, you’re trading initial fiddling with cost. A single z motor is going to require more fiddling to get right, but it does save on BOM cost.
Why not just build a Voron? Other than your bed size, nothing else you listed wouldn’t work on a Voron build. If you want to make it your own, the design is fully open source so you can modify to your heart’s content. There are also a ton of “unofficial” and “official” mods.
It’s worth saying that CoreXY != bed slinger, so…
If it’s heat it could also be a cooling thing. If you search the web on your search engine of choice for “<printer name> driver overheat” you’ll see what solutions the community has already come up with.