My old i3 clone came with a 1mm steel rod I use in these situations. Leave the extruder on your printer, cut the filament off, heat up the extruder to a normal printing temp, and push the gunk through the nozzle. If you have a cold side clog you’re probably going to have to add heat from something like a heat gun.
No problem! I’m glad you were able to get to the bottom of it.
100%. Transitioning from making all decisions for your kids to becoming a trusted advisor is something you need to do intentionally over time. Let your kids make low impact decisions when they’re young. Offer guidance as needed, not all the time. Simple examples include what to have for a meal/snack, where to go for a play date, etc.
100%. I want to loudly point out that you saying ‘jailing poor people not isn’t fiscally responsible and doesn’t benefit society, the money would be better spent giving people a better shot at success’ is a great example of social liberal (make society better) and fiscal conservative (don’t spend money on stupid things).
And building credit is useful to set yourself up for future purchases - a condo/house, car, whatever. The whatever here is bigger than it semese, as having a decent credit score can let you finance all kinds of things at a pretty low rate, if not 0% even today. If you’re saving any extra money in an investment/retirement account, and can pay off your 0% financing offers in full by the time you would start to owe interest, financing at 0% is a great deal even if you have the cash on hand to pay outright.
Using old cards is important - if you don’t use them the issuer might close them. I had that happen with my very first credit card. My next oldest account was something like 5 years newer, which at the time was a pretty big gap because I hadn’t yet reached quasi-old-far status.
Although much of Tesla’s value recently was from a big jump in November (getting a fancy new oval-shaped office will do that for you)
I don’t think many people realize just how big a jump this was.
If you add position sensors to the servos you shouldn’t need much calibration after the first go, no?
It looks a lot like a typical robotic arm used in manufacturing. A quick Google shows that there are a number of desk mounted versions available, but I have no idea what kind of accuracy they offer. It shouldn’t be that complicated of a design and since most approaches use encoders things like missteps should be a thing of the past.
I can’t see pulling this off at a home user price point without pretty big compromises on positioning accuracy and/or giving up on feedback.
I grew up with the OG winamp and was trying to dissociate with the handle that I’ve been using across the web for 25 years, so…
I would strongly suspect a retraction/priming or mechanical related issue give byhe fact that it’s repeatable in the same area of the print.
Has the printer been used recently and put out good prints? Has anything about the setup changed including a slicer update or different slicer?
I have two knee jerk reactions
Is there an under-extruded section of the print, similar to the corner closest to the camera on the lower section of the print, on the top section of the print? You might have a retraction/priming problem. A quick retraction test print would make this pretty obvious.
You might have had a partial clog that resolved itself, but the fact that the extrusion issues change with the topology of the design makes me want to suggest something else. Try the print again. If you get the same outcome filament isn’t the primary cause.
Steve Oedekerk, the writer/star of King pow: enter the fist, is amazing in every way - especially if you were consuming media in the 90s. He
What’s the error? I had issues trying to upload photos taken on my pixel 3a. They were getting blocked by cloudflare. I traded some messages with an admin and even provided a raw photo. They looked into it, found something, adjusted it, and… still no dice.
I have no issues with my new OnePlus 12. For my 3a, editing the photos in any app, even just to very slightly crop them, would remove whatever was going on.
The old “privacy focused” setting made speech processing local. The new “privacy focused setting” means that processing will happen on a remote server, but Amazon won’t store the audio after it’s been processed. Amazon could still fingerprint voices with the new setting, to know if it was you or your parents/parter/kid/roommate/whomever and give a person specific response, but for now at least they appear to not be doing so.
This all seems like it’s missing the point to me. If you own one of these devices you’re giving up privacy for convenience. With the old privacy setting you were still sending your processed speech to a server nearly every time you interacted with one of those devices because they can’t always react/provide a response on their own. Other than trying to avoid voice fingerprinting, it doesn’t seem like the old setting would gain you much privacy. They still know the device associated to the interaction, know where the device is located, which accounts it’s associated with, what the interaction was, etc. They can then fuse this information with tons of other data collected from different devices, like a phone or computer. They don’t need your unprocessed speech to know way too much about you.
more than in any other industry that I have seen
I dunno, I work in auto and let me tell you some things. Granted, I’ve never worked in aviation.
Most of the kits on both sites are going to be pretty solid. You’ll be able to find reviews for most of them, as well as a bunch of forums like audio karma and what not.
As for cost/benefit of DIY speakers, DIY speakers that are well designed will punch well above their BOM cost (eg a $300 to build diy speaker will generally outperform a $300 retail speaker). But if you have a pair of decent hifi speakers already it might not be worth the dive. Most commercial speakers tune for a “house sound” so switching brands can be a bit off-putting at first. Let’s just say that burn in is a two way road and part of that road is your ear acclimating to the sound profit of the speaker.
Thanks for taking the time to type out that reply, it packed a ton of information. I think you’re under selling the eye and the technique necessary to sand well. I’ve done some DIY auto-body and paint work and I really struggled to know when I had sanded well enough. Yeah, I knew I needed to sand more, but I had no idea where to focus my efforts and couldn’t easily distinguish a high spot that needed to get knocked down vs low spot that needed to get filled. Building that skill to the point of it being intuitive seems like something that would take a decent amount of practice or a great coach.
I hadn’t considered polishing ASA. I’m somewhat tempted to give it a go. The hardest thing for me would be figuring out how to sand large curved surface in such a way that doesn’t result in lots of obvious flat spots. I can absolutely see sanding/polishing making prints a bit stronger.
I’m sorry to hear about your physical condition and wish you as much additional recovery as possible. I totally get having very limited time with two younger kids in my house. I think all in the build took 4-5 months starting from printing parts, ordering a kit, and finishing assembly. Even though my kids are not new to me anymore, I don’t know that I’ve fully come to grips with the fact that I can’t complete projects as quickly as I once could and I should probably slow down my rate of project accumulation.
No problem! If you’re already designing speakers, printing vs making them out of something else will come down to your CAD skills/speed vs how long it would take you to make a finished enclosure out of a different material like wood.
I wouldn’t call anything about the process hard, but it can be a bit time consuming if you’re not a CAD ninja already. Either way, doing this will probably improve your CAD skills.
If you’ve never designed a speaker before, you could purchase a kit for one of the many DIY speakers out there and print the enclosure. My first DIY bluetooth speaker was an Overnight Sensation MTM stuffed in a very undersized, and ported, wood enclosure with a built in bluetooth board, basic BMS, and amplifier. Parts-Express, Madisound, and a number of players make getting a complete DIY kit easy.
Odds are your phone has a modern connector so this isn’t necessary. I replaced my pixel 3a, which I bought in September 2019, last December. Thanks to wired phone projection, I cycled its USB-C connector twice a day for 5 years and 3 months. That’s ~4,000 cycles. The connector specification calls for a 10,000 cycle lifetime.
I did have to de-lint the connector from time to time, but other than that I had no issues.
Not to say that you shouldn’t use inductive charging of course :)